Monday, April 11, 2011

Celine S/S 2010 Paris

Image source:, Jak&Jil

In 2009, Phoebe Philo, one of the biggest fashion stars of her generation whose hip-yet-girlish clothes and coveted bags catapulted Chloé into the designer big leagues, said she’s ready for her comeback after three years out of the spotlight to focus on her young family. Her first creation as the head designer for Celine was being one of the most anticipated collection during S/S 2010 fashion week.

The result wasn't disappointing at all. In fact, Phoebe Philo simply took this work to another level. Her take on the asymmetrical closures and hems looks refreshing. I was totally enamored with this summer leather trend, and Phoebe has done it better than what I've seen almost anywhere else. There's such precision to the leather looks presented here that they have the longevity to get worn over one's brisk spring ensembles and carried right over to one's fall/winter wardrobe seamlessly. The overall feeling was a mix of clean lines with femininity: it was beautiful and very womanly without being overtly sexual or placing an unnecessary emphasis on the form. The clothes simply evoke the feeling rather than visually asserting it.

I have always loved Phoebe Philo. She's smart and sharp about taking the design directions - keeping the Celine ship steady and following the direction of the more respected French collections: neutrals, minimalism, classic with a modern approach. The fact that I didn't see any of the old Chloé spirit in this collection was actually making me glad. I respect her a lot more for going for a more sophisticated, minimal look this time instead of the old giggly-girly Chloé. This will sell to the old Celine customer, and win over some of the old Chloé customers as well who are die-hard Philo fans, so in all business calculations, this works even though no grounds are broken. I appreciate that fashion often goes a bit minimal during recessions,and I can't really blame the houses for wanting to make money and cashing in on their designer's popularity!


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